Colour fastness tests for printed fabric: rubbing, washing and light

ISO 105 is a series of test methods for the colour fastness of textiles. Centexbel lists these ISO 105 parts [1].

• Rubbing: ISO 105-X12 covers rubbing fastness and uses dry and wet rubbing cloths [1].
• Washing: ISO 105-C06 covers colour fastness to laundering, with single (S) and multiple (M) test variants [1].
• Light: ISO 105-B01 covers the action of daylight, and ISO 105-B02 uses an artificial light source representative of natural daylight (D65) [1].

Centexbel lists X12:2016, C06:2010 and B02:2013 [1]. Testex lists B02 as 2014 and describes it as xenon arc lamp testing [2]. The year differs, so name the edition you want when you request a test.

Each method answers a different question. Rubbing asks whether colour comes off onto another material. Washing asks what happens when the item is laundered. Light asks how the colour fades under light.

The rubbing test (ISO 105-X12) covers rubbing fastness and uses dry and wet rubbing cloths [1]. A dry run and a wet run can give different results, so a buyer should know which was reported.

What is assessed is the staining of the rubbing cloth. One textile-education page describes viewing the cloth in a D65 light box, with unstained cloths beneath it, and evaluating the staining with the grey scale. The result is the grey scale rating closest to the staining of the rubbing cloth [6]. Testex lists ISO 105-A03 as the grey scale for staining [2]. When you request a rubbing test, ask which cloth conditions were run.

ISO 105-C06 covers colour fastness to laundering [1]. The S test closely approximates one commercial or domestic laundering. The M test may in some cases be approximated by the results of up to five domestic or commercial launderings at temperatures not exceeding 70 degrees C, and the M tests are more severe than the S tests because of an increase in mechanical action [1].

Two things are assessed: the change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric, both with grey scales [5]. Testex lists ISO 105-A02 as the grey scale for colour change and ISO 105-A03 as the grey scale for staining [2].

Light testing uses a xenon arc lamp to simulate natural daylight [4]. The method suits coloured textiles and is also suitable for white and brightened fabrics [4]. Specimens are usually evaluated by comparing fading with blue wool references [4].

There are eight blue wool references, numbered 1 to 8, ranging from low to high lightfastness [3]. Fading is measured on a grey scale of 1 to 5 with half-steps [3]. The scale gives references for fading from 5 (no fading) to 1 (extreme fading), and a result between 3 and 4 is written "3-4" [4].

The standard describes several methods of using the references. One uses the full set, one uses a single set to test several specimens, and one uses a single reference for quality control [3].

Grey scales are references used to grade colour change or staining. Testex lists ISO 105-A02 as the grey scale for colour change and ISO 105-A03 as the grey scale for staining [2].

For light fading, the 5 to 1 scale is described in the light section above.

The table below sets out what each test assesses.

1. Name the method and edition, for example ISO 105-X12 for rubbing, ISO 105-C06 for washing and ISO 105-B02 for light [1]. Editions change, so confirm the current edition with the lab.
2. For rubbing, ask which cloth conditions (dry, wet or both) were tested and whether staining was reported.
3. For washing, state the care instructions the customer will follow, match the test to that label, and ask which variant (S or M) was run.
4. For light, ask for the blue wool grade, the exposure method and the fade grade [3].
5. For every test, ask for each grade as a number rather than a word like "good", and ask whether it was assessed by grey scale or by instrument.
6. Confirm in writing that the tested specimen was made on the same fabric and with the same print method as production.
7. Agree the minimum grade you will accept for each test before bulk production, and record it in the specification.

For how colour behaves before it ever reaches a test, see fabric printing methods for cushions and curtains, pigment printing on cotton and linen cushion covers and dye-sublimation on polyester cushion covers. To plan the sample stage, read sampling before a bulk order, and when you compare suppliers, use how to compare manufacturer quotes.

This guide is general information. Confirm the exact test requirements with the testing laboratory and the standard itself.

ArtzFolio is a private-label and OEM/ODM manufacturer in Noida serving businesses and brands only. We make fabric furnishings such as cushions and curtains, and you can read more in our guide to printed cushion and curtain fabrics. Samples are paid, and the cost may be reimbursed or adjusted by agreement. Our quote states minimum order and lead time. Our shipping term is EXW Noida and payment is 50% advance. We reply within 1 business day. Tell us which tests and grades your buyers expect, and we will confirm in the quote what can be supplied. See pricing, minimums and lead times or contact us.

1. Colour fastness according to ISO 105 series, Centexbel. centexbel.be
2. Comprehensive guide to colour fastness standards: ISO 105 series, Testex. testextextile.com
3. Understanding the Reference Materials Used in ISO 105-B02, Q-Lab. q-lab.com
4. ISO 105-B02, Q-Lab. q-lab.com
5. Colour Fastness to Washing Procedure (ISO 105 C06), Textile Learner. textilelearner.net
6. Colour Fastness to rubbing test | Purpose | Equipment | Test Specimen | Method, Textile Education Blogs. diantextile.blogspot.com